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I really don't understand how strong the fretboard extension to the soundboard connection has to be. I thought I read here somewhere that someone dooesn't even bother to connect via bolts or glue. I thought of using these inserts and superglue them to my fretboard. I tried a test piece and they held pretty well. This was quite easy, glue them down, put the neck on, mark where they hit the soundboard and drill. Am I not providing enough structural integrity? Clinton

Unless you have planned for this type of attachment (block under the extension area) I wouldn't use any type of mechanical fasteners. They'll just rip out the soft spruce. Just glue it down. The joint isn't really that critical as you are really only trying to prevent buzzing of the extension.

I should of noted, I used a neck block extension. I'm not sure if that's what you call it. It's 1/2" thick, runs back to my upper brace, right above the sound hole. The inserts are 1/4" tall. So I was able to use 3/4" screws and washers. I've seen where they use a block of wood glued to the fretboard, but I got to wondering if this would suffice? Clinton

No don't do it that way. Like Paul said, youl will end up in a mess. Even with a block extention, you probably want a sled (term used in old shop)on the tongue to hold all of it down. Sand the area flat and glue.

EDIT after reading your second post again...

I don't see why it wouldn't work... for a while anyway. I don't think it takes much to secure the extension.

If you're just looking to secure the extension. My first still has no glue or anything else to secure the extension. almost 4 years and it's still fine. Each one since that I have just used a small amount of white (Elmer's) glue to hold the extension down. Clear the finish on the top under the extension of course. This makes an easily reversible joint should you like to adjust things in the future.RCoates39066.9000925926

Yes, I'm looking for a non-glue removal. Being so new at this,I keep learning tips and going back to improve the action and playabilty on my first builds. I guess I'm a slow learner. Clinton

Clinton,

It will probably work with super glue but it is mostly the glue that is doing the work as the 'T-nuts' are really in reverse to how they were designed. Threaded inserts would be a better choice for sure but what you have will probably do the trick. Now, having said this I am speaking from experience with these fastners and not this operation!

Shane

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Canada

Here is a short explanation on how I make the bolt on section for the fingerboard extension.
First thing to do is have the neck properly aligned with the body.




Next, cut out the mortise and attach a block under the fingerboard extension.
This block supports the extension and adds thickness for the threaded inserts.
The #8-32 socket head cap screws (SHCS) and brass threaded insert are shown in the pocket for truss rod access.



Next step is to drill holes through the fretboard and support black at a fret slot.
I used the 18th fret.
This small hole will be completely covered with fret wire.



Remove the neck. Now you have perfectly aligned holes. Enlarge the holes in the guitar to accept the #8-32 SHCS.



Enlarge the holes in the fretboard extension block to accept the #8-32 brass inserts.
Use a brad point drill. Do not brill through the fretboard!
Screw in the brass threaded inserts and the job is done.
How's that?

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"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.

I've been gluing my fingerboards to neck extensions for some years now, I never liked gluing my neck to the top if it could be avoided. But I think some of the advantages are lost if the FB is not glued to an extension of the neck itself rather than just to an additional block glued to the FB. My neck extensions are a continuation of the neck piece so that the FB is glued to the same piece of wood all the way along.

In the past I have always used threaded inserts into the extension and bolted it down to the neck block extension. However, Dave White an OLF member and a UK luthier who I respect enormously uses a similar system without bolting it down. So I'll be giving that a try this time.



Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

   I can tell you that this will not work. Those are T nuts and they are not designed to be on the pull like you have them. They are designed to be used so that the threads will pull the teeth into the wood.
   Look at the design and you can see the teeth . As the wood dries they will come out.
   john hall
blues creek guitars

[QUOTE=terken] I've done about 5 now with the Sylvan Wells technique as
demonstrated on
his web site.....John Mayes describes a similar technique in his videos.
Terry Kennedy[/QUOTE]

Just to clear up... Sylvan got his neck joint from my video (as far as I know..I
may be wrong) and I got it from Dana Bourgeois, so really we ALL got the
joint from Dana who designed it in the first place. Dana deserves all the
credit for the wonderful joint. I put the idea out there to a lot of people with
my video, but Dana deserves all the credit. You can see a picture of his joint
on www.pantheonguitars.com

_________________
John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

Colin,
I like that design!
I have had the same reluctance to gluing down the extension. Mostly for the same reasons as Cinton. Also, it never made sense to me that you have a bolt on neck but glue the extension.
Although many builders have assured me that this is the best way to go and is easily removed with heat if you use the right glue. Some have been able to do a neck reset with the extension still glued!
Lots of different ways to do this I guess.

Wade

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Wade
Nashua, NH
http://www.wadefx.com

Steve, I really appreciate the tip. That's pretty nefty on how you mark the holes. From now on, no fretting until the FB extension is complete.
I guess my idea isn't very wise after reading your comments and re-evaluating.
John, I guess I'm going have to check this out.
Thanks   Clinton